• The wheels should be concentric and at right angles to the axles and firmly attached.
• The back-to-back spacing should conform to NRMA standards. This is most important and is the cause of many derailments).
• The axles should be straight and parallel to each other and square with the bogie (truck) or, for 4 wheel stock frames.
• The wheels should be free running in the bogies or frames.
• The bogies should be free running if you push them across a table top. (If they dive off to one side find out why and correct).
• The wagon body should sit square on the bogies. If it wobbles or droops try and correct.
• Check that the wheels and coupling mechanism don't foul the underside of the wagon.

All this seems self evident but sometimes problems are not all that obvious. This is especially so if you have been modifying items. It is also a sad fact that even the more expensive brands are sometimes defective. Bent axles and loose wheels are not unc ommon. When you buy a wagon take it out of the box and examine it carefully. Run it on the test track and if it seems 'odd' then request the seller to correct it or don't buy it. Even Kato locos have wheels out-of-gauge sometimes.

If you are going to correct the gauge on a loco I can only say be careful. Some don't disassemble easily and gouging at the wheels with a screwdriver will probably bust something. Take it to a club for assistance. Perhaps the club could buy in a quantity of gauges for members??

If you 'tune-up' all your wagons you might find that your locos have suddenly improved. Certainly your operations will. If you get the wheels right trains will be more forgiving of track irregularities. Keep your track clean and check wheel sets occasionally for 'crud' build up. The rolling stock I used on the club's modules at Malkara all had scale, North West Short Line wheels on them and nothing fell off.

CAR (Wagon) WEIGHTS

Another major improvement for better running is to get the weights right. The table below gives certain recommended weights for American outline wagons. It should apply to almost all rolling stock. Four wheel stock could require some trial and error. (Comments please). Metal wheels also give a little extra weight and lower the centre of gravity thus helping to keep stock on the track. If you use lead shot or some of the malleable lead compounds, remember that lead is a poison and wash your hands well after use.

The National Model Railroad Association recommends the following weights.

To convert ounces into grams multiply by 28.349523. To go the other way divide by the same factor. (You knew that didn't you?).

TRACK

Track has to be level and true. It can only be as good as the baseboard so efforts have to start there. Distorted plywood or hills and hollows from whatever cause will bedevil your layout for ever. No amount of shimming etc. will ever truly correct for it , so if you are starting off take a little more time. Use a straight edge and make sure your joinery won't sag over time.

Most of us use 'flexitrack' of some kind or other. I have generally used Peco and have found it very good. As I model American outline and if I was starting over I would probably use Micro-Engineering 'Flex-Track' as it comes in a range of heights (Codes) and has American spacing for the sleepers but this is largely cosmetic. If it isn't well laid any brand can cause troubles. The most common error is in spiking track to the baseboard or subroad bed. (cork or whatever). It is very easy to drive spikes in too hard or far and thus distort the flexitrack. This has the effect of altering the gauge and also causing a wavy effect in the running rails. A subtle distortion of the track, especially on curves, will cause derailments and if you have ballasted the track it is hard to correct. It is best to drill holes in the plastic sleepers and gently force rail spikes in with pliers or an insertion tool.

Again, use a straight edge where possible and test run wagons over sections to check for smooth running.

To join sections together either cut the rails to length with a saw or use an Xuron rail nipper. Whatever, you should dress the ends with a small file. Make sure the rail under the rail joiners is clean. Use the correct rail joiners and throw away old ones. They will only give electrical problems later on. When joining sections try and keep the joints adjacent to each other. ie don't stagger them. The gauge will wander off and flanges will find something to 'bite' on and a wheel set will take off. Try to keep short lengths for straight sections. I solder rail joiners at one end only and, touch wood, don't seem to have electrical problems. An exception is on curves where I would solder both ends of the joiner so that the curve will remain constant. Constantly run a wheel set backwards and forwards over the track to test for 'edges' . Solder electrical feeder wires to the OUTSIDE of the running rails where you can see what you are doing. Make sure that the solder doesn't rise above the level of the running rail. Use a SMALL iron. Say 18 to 25 Watts.

POINTWORK

This the most interesting part of the layout. After all just having a circle wouldn't be much fun. Hopefully you have planned ahead and won't have turnouts straddling module joins or over supports where the point motor has to go. Also I hope you have thought how you will access the point motor both for assembly and later maintenance. Don't put turnouts in tunnels. Murphy lives there. Again the ideal is for all components to be flat and true. It is a brave modeller that builds a turnout on a rising curve with superelevation but it can be done. Just keep it all flat. No. I don't use superelevation. I usually pre-fab mine on a bit of scrap ply then transfer them to the layout. Make sure that the running rails remain true and that you don't inadvertently introduce a kink where the track enters and leaves the turnout. This seems to happen very easily where you use insulated joiners. One school of thought suggests that all track be assembled with metal rail joiners and that electrical gaps be later cut with a Dremel abrasive wheel. The gap can be filled with a styrene strip that can be later filed to shape. Certainly appearance improves. Try to avoid bringing a soldering iron anywhere near a Peco turnout.

As for track work run wagons, wheels sets and locos (if possible) through the assembly before any irrevocable fastening or wiring.

If you are going to ballast pointwork (and track) make sure that the ballast doesn't interfere with the moving blades or get in the way of the wheel flanges. Peco points rely on an electrical contact being made between the moving point blade and the running rails. This must be absolutely free of ballast and you must ensure that any residual adhesive is cleaned off both surfaces. This also applies if you paint or weather your track.

That is about all there is to it. Take your time. Don't force track and turnouts to conform to your plan. If something won't fit then redesign. Don't beat it into submission. Running will be the better for it and so will the appearance!. Keep your rolling stock and loco wheels in gauge, clean the track and enjoy your hobby.