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HINTS & TIPS
On this page you will find various
hints and tips which could help you with your modelling.
We hope you keep sending all your
hints and tips in so we can share them with others. It can be
something simple like the items on the right, or if you prefer you can
write a full article like the ones below.
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OPTIONS
Making Realistic Cliffs
Towards Better Running
Add Lights To Your Layout
Points Improvement
Points Repair
C.D.U. and More
Build Your Own Turntable
Make Your Own People
The following was submitted by Lee Weldon, Cambridge, Maryland, USA. Recently I built a large factory building (US prototype auto
plant) and needed to represent large banks of steel frame windows.
I had generated drawings of the plant on my MS paint program, and
was wondering what product to use. Commercial window castings are
hard to come by around here, so I was stuck. Later that week I
was in the office supply store, and saw a packet of photo-copy
transfer transparency sheets. They are for use in presentations
where you generate your original print, then photocopy the image
onto the transparency. Eureka!
I generated another Paint image, this time deleting all of the
wall detail, and leaving only the windows. Each window is 6 panes
high and 12 panes wide. I used a thicker line for the perimeter
of the window, and a very fine line for the light divisions. In
the middle of the window, I added a thick line around a 6 pane
section (two high, 3 wide). I then duplicated the window to
create a full sheet, printed it out, and then photocopied it onto
the clear acetate. In no time flat I had all the windows I needed.
As each was installed in the building, I carefully scored the 6
pane section above and below the centre line, then twisted it out
to appear as an awning sash. The whole process took about an hour.
I am experimenting now with signage and other projects using the
process.
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HINTS & TIPS
I wasted a lot of paint for
the tiny amount I used so now I recycle the empty strips that held my
medicine tablets, the bubble type with a metal film back. The
bubbles are about 1/2" dia. I strip the broken film off the back then
push the bubble back into shape with my thumb, when I have stirred my 'humbrol'
with a cocktail strip I let it drain into a bubble and hey presto no
more gunge round the top of the can.(Stu Roche)
For white /yellow lining on
roadways, use car pinstriping tape, available in various widths, can be pulledv
tight for straight lines or curved gently, then with a craft knife cut out the
gaps between the lines. Surprising how far a roll will go.
Have you ever tried to paint the plated wheel rims on
Locomotives and stock Black and wished for more control, a thin
covering and a lasting job? The Indelible (water proof) Black Pen
will do all this and more. Touching up metal loco kits and wagon
lettering patches for example, use a pen with a fine point. (Steve Searson)
This pen with a fine point can be used for putting silver rims
on black plastic wheels and window frames etc., a Gold pen and a
white pen are also available, together with the above in several
tip sizes. The white pen is suitable for markings on wagons and
road markings etc. For yellow road markings recolour the white
markings with a yellow fibre tip pen. (Steve Searson)
The problem of wagon lettering and chalk marks is covered as
long as the pencil is sharp, but what about Lime stains on loco
boilers and tenders, with a little practice all manner of stains
can be reproduced, don't forget you can smudge it if required
with your finger then seal with a coat of varnish. (Steve Searson)
I use plumbers flux for the odd soldering jobs which need a
little help, ( I use both White metal and multi-core solder ), the
most obvious is assembling kits in white metal, brass or nickel
silver where the minimum of solder is required. Other uses
include, the tinning of plated steel pins, my layout "Ryde
Esplanade" has the third rail mounted on ordinary dress
making pins, some electrical soldering jobs have been assisted
with it too. (Steve Searson)
When installing wiring runs under the baseboard I use eyelets
to hang the wires to with small cable ties. The eyelets I use are
for attaching to net curtain wire to make them detachable, and
are cheaper if purchased loose. (Steve Searson)
Believe this or not but this can be used as a light filler. (Steve Searson)
Another useful storage container for larger bits and pieces
and "N" gauge stock. It will take coaches if card
shelves and partitions are installed or depending on the type of
plastic used, a cheep source of sheet plastic. (Steve Searson)
A disposable Epoxy/Super glue applicator, mixer, cleaning
stick, poker and prodder. (Steve Searson)
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HINTS & TIPS
I was introduced to this by way of the article in M.R.J. No.65,
"Wagon loads No1" Sheeted vehicles, by Martin Welch who
works in 7mm scale, (The creator of Hursley). Although this
article dealt with 7mm, I have used 2" wide masking tape in
"N" and 4 mm scale to make Tarpaulins and Hoods for
"China Clay" wagons. Used as a single strip, not built
up from strips as Martin did, cut to size and draped over the
wagon, or whatever else you wish to cover. There is no need to
get completely square, and press on the sides. The tape is thin
enough for some detail to show through as on the real thing. The
ends then require to be folded in. Imagine that you are doing
this for the umpteenth time and just want to get it done. The
tape is textured and of course sticks to the article to be
covered. Super Glue will help it if required, then paint light
green / blue, grey or black. Some had lettering on them, No's etc.,
use white pencil and weathering will hide any mistakes. (Steve Searson)
A cheap disposable clamp with many applications, can be
modified to suit a particular job or application, which could be
used on its own or in multiple. (Steve Searson)
Available from a scrap merchant (not your local church roof!),
and paid for by it's weight. Useful for adding extra weight to
locomotives and wagon kits, e.g. "Parkside" 00 or
"Parkwood" N, and other items of rolling stock. (Steve Searson)
In the early days of N gauge modelling, thin acetate sheet was
used to represent various handrails, ornamental railing and cast
ironwork (angle brackets). With the metalwork engraved into the
sheet, the engraved parts were then filled with paint, wiped and
then cut out. The latest method is as follows. Draw your desired
railing TWICE full size onto A3 paper, reduce on a Photo-copier
by 50%, take as many copy's as required plus a few spares to fill
an A4 sheet. Take this to a copy shop and get an Overhead
Transparency taken from it. Once home, cut out the railing etc.
and stick it to your model. This method was used on my Ryde
Esplanade layout for the road pier railing. This method could
also be used for such things as bridge ironwork, overhead
cantenary parts and sides for flush sided coaches. For coloured
parts, draw your first in the required colour and use a colour
photo-copier and OHPs. (Steve Searson)
Usually thrown away or discarded these little containers are
useful for storing small parts, Locomotive spares, nails and what
have you. A label describing the contents of the container
produced from nothing more than a piece of masking tape, with a
relevant description. (Steve Searson)
The container can also be used for scatter. Just puncture the bottom,
fill with scatter and then sprinkle over glue. (George Hims) |
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